Trip report: group trip in the Maldives from liveaboard Nautilus II
In mid-October, our group trip to the Maldives was scheduled: ten nights on the Nautilus II for the central itinerary. A wonderful trip during which we saw a lot underwater. In this travelogue you can read all about this trip: from our dives to general tips for a trip to the Maldives. And if you don’t have time to read everything: just watch the video and see what we saw too!
Robbert is co-owner of EWDR and often the first contact for the Netherlands and Belgium. He is also a fanatic diver. He has been diving for many years and has also visited several places. In October, he traveled with a group of divers to the Maldives to dive for a week from liveaboard Nautilus II. In this trip report you can read how the trip was and he shares his tips for a diving trip to the Maldives.
Most of our group of fourteen divers left Amsterdam in the afternoon. Two others opted for Düsseldorf and joined us later at Malé Airport. Even as we gathered, it became clear that we were a nice mix: from energetic twenty-somethings to fit sixty-somethings – as if someone had assembled the cast for a tropical diving version of Expedition Robinson.
We met at Schiphol Airport and after a brief acquaintance, the suitcases were off to the baggage carousel. There a few of us immediately ran into a surprise: the short flight to Heathrow was full, so hand luggage suddenly had to go into the hold. A disastrous prospect for everyone who had carefully packed cameras and lenses. Backpackers, meanwhile, walked on whistling, as if they knew this moment would come. Fortunately, with some repacking, everything was finally safely taken into the cabin.
Through security everything went smoothly and after a well-deserved sandwich we boarded the flight to England. The transfer was short, and then we could go straight on with the overnight flight. That was a relief: rather one long pull through than trying to stay awake at night in an airport somewhere between Dubai and Doha. We flew with British Airways – fine, but not a new love. The planes are a bit older and the baggage limit less generous than Emirates. One lucky person did get an upgrade to Premium Economy and enjoyed just a little more legroom, better seats and extra snacks. Secretly, that’s worth considering for the next long route.
Arriving at Malé – a small but busy airport – a bus took us from the plane first to the terminal, where we had to go through customs before picking up our bags. For your convenience, take a screenshot of your mandatory registration; it just saved a few minutes in line. Since we arrived on the weekend, it was pretty crowded. For those who don’t like lines: landing during the week is really nicer.
After picking up our luggage, Koko, our safari leader from the Nautilus II, was already waiting with his team. We waited for a few more travelers from other flights, which gave us nice time to get water, change clothes and – for anyone without an e-sim – score a local SIM card. Keep the following in mind, though: between the atolls, you often only have 3G. Perfect for messaging, but uploading photos? Not really. That’s why a liveaboard with good wifi or Starlink is no luxury.
October is a transitional month between the low and high seasons, and that became immediately apparent. Instead of Maldivian picture postcard blue skies, we immediately received a tropical-sized downpour. Within a minute, the world turned into fifty shades of gray. Not ideal for your first vacation photo, but fortunately the mood was right on. Koko and his team escorted us through the rain to the port, where dhonis are constantly docking to take travelers to resorts. The dhonis are the typical boats you have here in the Maldives. So you don’t have zodiacs like in Egypt, for example, but a small, wooden boat. The crew helped us and our suitcases on board and we bumped through the waves to the liveaboard. Along the way, we were tipped off to leave all our diving gear on board the dhoni – it stays there all week. Totally safe, by the way, because two crew members sleep on the dhoni every night.
Once aboard the Nautilus II, lunch was ready, our bags were taken to our cabins and we made a relaxing check dive at Kurumba House Reef that same afternoon. Then it was time to land, set up our spacious cabins and toast the start of the trip with a beer or cocktail – only after going through the mandatory emergency procedures, of course.
Diving at the various atolls
The next morning we dived at Shark Tank, perhaps the most famous dive site right near Malé harbor. Because of the fish waste that fishermen throw overboard here, this spot has attracted large species for years. You can spot stingrays, hammerheads ánd tiger sharks in one dive. During our first dive, we only saw dozens of stingrays, but we agreed to give this site a second chance later in the week.
We then continued our route to South Malé Atoll and went straight up a level. At Kuda Giri Wreck we combined wreck, glassfish and macro, while Kandooma Thila gave us the first real current dive of the trip. Here we hung out in the current while gray reef sharks, tuna and hunting trevallies appeared in the blue depths.
From South Malé, we set sail for Vaavu Atoll, famous for its wide kandus. Miyaru Kandu, Fotheyo Kandu and later again Miyaru Kandu gave us that typical Vaavu feeling: slow drift over vast plateaus, eagle rays hovering beautifully above you, sharks swimming their regular laps as if on duty. At Dhiggiri and Kunaavashi Thila, the scenery softened, with beautiful overhangs and lots of colorful coral. The following morning we also dived Kunaavashi Kandu, where the current was mild enough to explore the reef in a relaxed manner.
After Vaavu, we continued on toward South Ari Atoll, where you’ll find classic Maldivian thila diving. Kuda Rah Thila was a highlight: huge gorgonians, arches full of glassfish and hunting barracudas. Gembal Block and Fish Head also provided impressive dives, with napoleon fish, hunting trevallies and reef sharks constantly swimming in and out of view.
In North Ari Atoll, we worked toward the absolute spectacle of the itinerary. We had been looking forward to the famous Fesdhoo Manta Night, where manta rays were supposed to float through the beams of light like graceful shadows. Unfortunately, the currents decided things had to be different that night – including lost lights. So this dive is officially on the list for the next liveaboard. Fortunately, Fesdhoo Wreck, Maaya Thila and Hafsaa Thila made up for a lot: cuttings full of sharks, hunting reef fish and octopuses that change color faster than you change direction. In the evening, we dived Maaya Thila again – this time with whitetip reef sharks hunting and moray eels peeking curiously out of their burrows.
The final leg of the itinerary took place around Rasdhoo. At Ethere Madivaru, Bathala Thila and Rasdhoo Madivaru, we enjoyed sunrise dives full of gray reef sharks, schools of barracuda and deep blue vistas. This was exactly the kind of diving for which people return year after year.
After 26 fantastic dives, we concluded the trip with a final dive at Shark Tank – this time with success: dozens of spinner sharks, eagle rays and another tiger shark. Back on board, the crew made sure all our dive gear was carefully rinsed out, washed and hung to dry. You literally had nothing to worry about. A good tip, though, is to put your name or initials in your wetsuit and on your fins. We had several people on board with the same wetsuit, and it happened more than once that someone grabbed the wrong one and had to take it off again. In the afternoon we still had time to explore Malé, although most agreed that you don’t miss much if you just stay on the liveaboard. It’s friendly, but not a must-see. In the evening we settled in nicely, completely unburdened and satisfied after a wonderful diving trip.
After ten days of diving, wandering, eating, sleeping and repeating, during the last evening on the Nautilus II we sat and talked about everything we had experienced. Between stories of drift diving, manta rays and mysterious silhouettes in the blue depths, we also unwittingly collected all the tips we thought: they really need to be in this report. So herewith – for anyone considering the same Maldives itinerary – our brief and practical collected wisdom:
- Choose a flight with one long layover – much nicer than overnight layovers.
- Flying with cameras or dive gear? With Emirates, you’re in a better place than with British Airways.
- Landing on Malé during the week = less waiting.
- Buy a local SIM card, but expect island 3G.
- A liveaboard with good WiFi/Starlink is not a luxury.
- October = rain + less visibility, but also less boats.
- If you just want nice weather and good visibility underwater, go in December, January, February or March at the latest.
- Bring your own reef hook for the dives with a lot of current.
- ENOS on board provides additional safety when drift diving.
- Grease often – the UV index is spicier than it looks.
- Visiting Malé City is possible, but you’re not missing anything if you don’t go.
- Bring plenty of cash/credit card for tips and drinks.
- Write your name or initials in the wetsuit or fins so you don’t accidentally put on the wrong one
Also experience this diving trip?
And so ended our trip: full of great memories, semi-dry dive gear and strong stories for home. Curious about this trip or want to go to the Maldives yourself? Check out our trips here or request more information for a customized trip.
